Vinous – June 10, 2021
In “Sicily: The Island Nation,” Eric Guido reviews:
MORGANTE Don Antonio 2015 – 93 points
“The 2015 Nero d’Avola Riserva Don Antonio is dark and brooding with a rich display of plum sauce, lavender, clove, hints of brown sugar and tobacco. Here I’m finding soft textures matched by depths of ripe black fruit that flesh out across the palate, leaving a tactile coating of minerals and grippy tannin in their wake. This is persistent and primary but also youthfully structured, just begging for a few years of cellaring to fully come together. With all of the intensity found within, you could almost convince yourself that the 2015 Don Antonio is ready to drink today, but the best is truly yet to come.”
MORGANTE Don Antonio 2017 – 92 points
“The 2017 Nero d’Avola Riserva Don Antonio is youthfully coy, with a showing of crushed black stones and camphor, evolving further to reveal hints of currant and savory spice. Its textures are like pure velvet, complemented by an elegant display of blackberries and plum, while also contrasted by saline-mineral tones and brisk acidity. The symmetry here is something to behold, as the 2017 comes across ripe yet wonderfully balanced and persistent, and finishes with salted licorice and inner lavender tones over a coating of sweet tannin. This may not be a Don Antonio for the ages, but it will enjoy a wide and pleasurable drinking window over the medium term.”
MORGANTE Bianco di Morgante 2020 – 90 points
“A rich and spicy display of dried apple and nectarine is offset by honeyed florals as the 2020 Bianco di Morgante opens up in the glass. This is soft in feel, with juicy acids and notes of zesty citrus that keep the energy high throughout. Young peach, mango and salty minerals linger as the Bianco di Morgante tapers off with cheek-puckering freshness. Very nice.”
MORGANTE Nero d’Avola 2018 – 90 points
“Wild peppery herbs and flowers waft up from the 2018 Nero d’Avola. This impresses with a soothing display of ripe black fruits, enlivened by vibrant acidity. Purple-tinged inner florals form toward the close. Salty mineral tones, blackberries and hints of sour citrus linger long as this tapers off with a bitter twang. The 2018 is harmonious and very easy to like. It may not be a wine for the cellar, but it will certainly win a lot of hearts right out of the gate.”
MORGANTE Bianco di Morgante 2018 – 89 points
“The 2018 Bianco di Morgante mixes notes of lemon confit, vanilla, mint and baked apple to create an understated yet alluring display. It’s silky and pliant in feel with a soothing inner sweetness, showcasing ripe orchard fruits and exotic inner florals. While a bit shorter than I had hoped, this finishes pleasantly, delivering mouthwatering freshness and salty minerals. The Bianco di Morgante is a unique white wine made from free-run Nero d’Avola juice.”
MORGANTE Nero d’Avola 2017 – 89 points
“Dusty, dark and aromatically closed in upon itself, the 2017 Nero d’Avola slowly opens with notes of peppery herbs, plums and hints of smoked meats. This is soft and fleshy in feel, complemented by red and black fruits that are further enlivened by juicy acidity. Hints of sweet tannin linger under an air of purple tinged florals, along with a note of cherry Jolly Rancher, which I must admit to finding oddly appealing here. A short stay in the cellar may help to reveal a more attractive bouquet.”